Confused as to what exactly a CNC router is? Deep dive into the terminology, technology, and much more to quickly become an expert on the newest technology emerging in the woodworking realm!

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Why Do I Need a CNC Table?

Most CNC machines on the market today, especially those marketed to Hobbyists or Woodworkers, do not come with legs or a base to stand on their own. So unless you’re planning to put your new expensive machine on the floor, you will need to get yourself a table!

Machines like the Shapeoko Pro, Inventables X-Carve, and Onefinity rely upon you providing the surface to mount them in your workshop or maker space. Given the large sizes of these machines, you may find yourself needing to buy or build a table large enough to fit your CNC!

How Do I Build a CNC Table?

Building a table for your CNC machine can be as complex or easy as you wish to make it. Some use construction lumber frames with basic plywood tops. Others build elaborate enclosures from extruded aluminum. Are you looking for a table that is easy to build, attractive, stable, strong, and affordable? These were qualities I had in mind while designing my own CNC table using only two sheets of 4′ x 8′ plywood!

Before you begin building, think about your workshop, the CNC machine itself, and any special needs you may have. Ask yourself the following questions.

• What is the footprint size of your CNC?

• Do you need room for accessories?

• Where will your CNC’s computer live?

• Are there any features you want your table to incorporate such as lumber storage or expansion panels for electrical or safety switches?

• Do you need your table to be mobile and on wheels?

• Do you need your table to fold up when not in use?

These are just a few of the many questions you should be asking to get a better understanding of exactly what you need. Knowing your needs will help guide you in building a table that serves you best in your own unique workshop or maker space.

My Shapeoko Pro CNC Table

I purchased a Shapeoko Pro CNC from Carbide 3D and needed a table for it. I wanted a rock-solid foundation for my machine to sit on. My table had to be dead flat, stable, and not sag over time from the weight of the machine (175 lbs. in my case).

The Shapeoko Pro is one of the larger Woodworking / Hobbyist CNC Routers on the market today. This meant I was going to be in for a larger table than others have made. I decided to make my table 60″ wide and 48″ deep to accommodate the Shapeoko Pro. This would give me about 6″ clearance on all sides from the machine to the table edge.

I wanted a table that was mobile, so put it on top of a set of six heavy-duty locking caster wheels. The large casters allow the table to glide smoothly across my workshop floor when needed, while their locking feature keep the table parked securely when it’s time to work.

I have a small workshop (16′ x 16′) and making room for this CNC table was a big task! To maximize the space and uses, I incorporated material storage into the table and also gave room for my shop vac dust collection to live under the table top, too.

CNC Table Plans

Buy the Project Plans to Build Your Own!

Shop Project Plans
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I plan to add an emergency stop switch to my CNC table in the near future as well as other switches to control dust collection, lighting, the router, and more. Knowing this ahead of time, I was able to design my CNC table with a special removable panel that I can mount all the electrical hardware onto for a nice clean look.

The last need for my CNC table was for it to be affordable! I was able to come up with an efficient design that used only two sheets of plywood for the whole build! This made the cost of the project at $100 USD — a great deal!

Building My Shapeoko Pro CNC Table

Where Can I Buy a CNC Table?

Not looking to go the DIY route on your table? Is your free time limited and you’d rather buy a table? Here are some considerations to think about when picking a commercial option for your CNC.

• How large is your machine?

• How heavy is your machine?

• What is your budget?

• Will you be adding an enclosure to it?

A recent poll of a CNC Woodworking group I am a member of showed these as the top tables people buy for their CNC Router machines.

Kreg Universal Bench System

With the Kreg Universal Bench, you can easily create a table to the right size to fit your CNC machine needs.

You will have to supply your own top and shelf (if desired).

Rockler Customizable Shop Stand

The Rockler Shop Stand is very similar to the Kreg system, but a bit more affordable. Rockler offers many size options to get the exact size you need for your CNC router.

You will have to supply your own top and shelf (if desired).

2×4 Basics Workbench Legs

Made of durable high-strength plastic, this is a leg kit to get you started on a semi-DIY solution for your CNC table setup. 

You will have to supply your own lumber for the framing, top, and shelf (if desired). However, you will not have to make any special joinery cuts with this system!

Samcraft Project Plans

Disclaimer:  I am not a licensed professional electrician and this article has not been approved by any licensed professional. Do not attempt anything you are uncomfortable with and always seek professional advice and help when performing such tasks. Attempt this at your own risk and liability.

Tool List

• • • Electrical Tester

    • Pen / Pencil

    • Utility Knife

    • Plunge Cut Hand Saw

    • Wire Cutters / Strippers

    • Screwdriver

Material List

• • • Old Work Electrical Outlet Box

    • Electrical Outlet

    • Outlet Cover Plate

Safety First

Using your Electrical Tester, ensure power is disconnected to the circuit you will be tapping into. If you are unsure, just turn off your main breaker. It’s always better to be safe than sorry!

Mark and Cut

Mark out the location for your old work electrical box to be installed. I made a simple old work box template from cardboard since I do a lot of these installs. I would recommend spending the time and making one of your own if you are a DIYer, too.

With the lines marked, use your Plunge Cut Japanese Hand Saw to carefully cut the wall opening. Be very careful and mindful of where the wires are in the wall –Your saw will easily cut wires!

Install the Old Work Electrical Box

Now it’s time to put the old work electrical outlet box into the wall. Punch out one of the tabs in the back of the outlet box, then carefully pull the wires through the hole as you work the box into the wall.

Once the box is in the wall, use your screwdriver to tighten the screws on the box. Old work outlet boxes have tabs that twist up and clamp onto your wall to secure themselves. Be careful not to over tighten these clamps as they will strip out or break!

Prepare the Wires

With the outlet box in place, it’s time to strip off the protective sheathing of the wires and prepare them to be installed onto the outlet.

Using your wire strippers, carefully cut off the outermost wire sheathing to expose the wires. Then strip each individual wire sheathing off to expose about 1 inch of bare copper wire.

Connect the Wires

On outlets in the US you will find three different screw colors. The screw colors correspond to the three wires as follows.

Silver Screw = Neutral / White Wire
Gold Screw = Hot / Black Wire
Green Screw = Ground / Bare Copper Wire

Using your Wire Strippers, bend the ends of the wires to make small hooks. Attach the wires around the screws in a clockwise fashion. This is important so that as you tighten the screws they pull the wires tight and secure them better. Using your Screwdriver, tighten the screws down snugly, including any extra screws you may not use in the outlet.

Install the Outlet into the Box

With everything properly connected, secured, and double-checked that the wires are on the correct terminals, now is the time to work the outlet into the box. Be mindful of the wire locations and try to keep them from rubbing the outlet or terminals. You don’t want the wires shorting out in the box and causing an electrical fire!

When you get close to having the outlet in the box, you can use the screws on the outlet to pull it into the box the rest of the way. Alternate from top to bottom screws to “walk” the outlet into the box carefully. Also, be mindful of the vertical orientation (plumb) of the outlet as you tighten the screws. There are slots in the outlet to allow for compensation of crooked outlet boxes.

Attach the Outlet Cover

With the outlet in place, now is the time to put the cover on and hope and pray that it covers up any oopsies you had from cutting the hole in your wall.

Use your Screwdriver to install the screw, being careful not to over tighten it — it will crack the outlet cover if you are not careful! Unfortunately, I know this first hand.

Turn on the Power

With everything installed, turn the power back on, test the outlet with your Electrical Tester, and make sure everything works as expected. 

High Fives?

Did everything work as expected? Did you not die? Did your wall not explode into flames? Does it look like a professional install? Did you not loose any fingers or appendages? Great! Give yourself a high five!

LED Light Panel Build Video

Tools Needed

• Hand Saw
• Tape Measure
• Square
• Pencil
• Utility Knife (for cutting panels)
• Drill Driver Set
• Screw Driver
• Countersink Bits
• Stapler
• Soldering Iron
• Solder Iron Holder / Stand / Helping Hands
• Combination / Bone Wrench
• Hot Glue Gun

Optional Tools

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• ISOtunes OSHA Approved Ear Buds

Materials Needed

• 1×4 Pine Board (or similar) ripped to 1″ wide and cut to fit the size of your light panel
• Prism Ceiling Light Panel cut to the size of your light panel
• Flat Matte White Lay In Ceiling Tile – cut to the size of your light panel
• 1.5″ wood screws
• Wood Glue
• Backer Board Clear Glue
• Staples
• LED Light Kit
• Small Gauge Wiring
• Electrical Solder
• Hot Glue
• 1/2″ Pan Head Screws
• 1/4″ x 20 Threaded Insert

Project Build Steps

1. Cut the prism and smooth panels to the size you want your LED light panel to be. I made mine 24″ wide and 8″ tall.
2. Rip the pine board into 1″ wide strips, then cut it to the required lengths to make a frame the same size as the panels you cut in Step 1.
3. Assemble the frame by drilling pilot holes and countersinking for the 1.5″ wood screws to attach the pine pieces together. Be sure to put a bit of wood glue on each of the joints, too.
4. Using the clear glue, run a bead around the whole wood frame, then place the smooth white panel on top of it. Using the stapler and 1/2″ staples, secure the smooth panel to the wood frame. This will hold the panel in place while the glue sets and allow you to keep working.
5. Drill a 1/4″ hole through the side of the frame to fish the power cord through.
6. Unpack the LED Light Kit and cut the strips to the desired length to fit inside the frame.
7. Feed the power cord through the hole in the frame (Step 5) and tie a knot in the wire to keep from pulling the wire out of the panel by accident later.
8. Cut the small 18ga wire into lengths to reach from strip to strip inside the panel.
9. Strip and pre-tin all of the wires and solder points of the LED light strips.
10. Solder the jumper wires on the LED light strips.
11. Test the light panel that all strips light up as you expect.
12. Using the hot glue gun, secure the jumper wires to the panel.
13. Install the prism light panel onto the frame using the 1/2″ pan head screws.
14. Drill a 3/8″ hole into the bottom center of the light panel frame and insert the 1/4″-20 threaded insert into the wood.

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Tools Used or Seen in Video

BUY THE BUILD PLANS HERE

I started off by ripping the lumber to width. I am using two lumber thicknesses for this project. 1/2″ plywood for the outsides, and 1″ maple for the inside parts. I chose the 1/2″ plywood to keep the broom holder from being too thick.

Using a stop block clamped to my crosscut sled, I then cut the boards to width. A crosscut sled is an essential table saw jig both for safety and versatility and can be made very easily.

Using a stop block at the miter saw, I cut the maple piece to form a wedge. I’m also using a large file to hold the piece near the blade so I can keep my hands at a safe distance.

Using a mixture of regular wood glue and super glue I began assembling the holder. Using super glue lets me keep working on assembly without having to use fasteners or wait for the glue to set up.

Using the rest of the maple, I ripped a thin strip. Then glued it in place.

Taking a section of 1/2″ plywood, I cut the outer face of the broom holder, cleaned up the edges with sandpaper, then glued it in place.

Purchase Build Plans Here

I also made a limited production run of these Dutch Broom Holders and have them for sale on my website if you would like to buy one and support me at the same time, click here to go to my online store.

I carefully cut an oak dowel down to size, then wrapped electrical tape around it several times. The electrical tape helps the disc grip onto brooms and not slip.

To keep the disc from coming out the top when you remove the broom, I glued a small block of 1/2 plywood to the top.

Predrilling and countersinking holes was the last step before hanging this on the wall.

This broom holder was designed to hold a modern style broom about 1″ in diameter. This holder can also easily be stained or painted to suit your style or needs. I plan to sand mine down and give it a nice coat of spray lacquer to match my shop decor.

Thanks for joining, see you next time… in the workshop!