Complete Build Video

Special Tools and Materials

FastenMaster HeadLOK Heavy-Duty Flathead 2-7/8″ Black Screws: https://amzn.to/3ntjE7s

8″ Black Heavy-Duty Hairpin Table Leg 4 Piece Set: https://amzn.to/34FxTO6

Ryobi Biscuit Plate Joiner Kit: https://amzn.to/30RbFaH

Minwax Early American Wood Stain: https://amzn.to/3nyWyfD

Watco Clear Spray Lacquer Finish: https://amzn.to/3luK471

Download the Free 3D Model images with dimensions as a PDF!

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Tools Needed

You only need a few basic tools to make this acoustic phone amplifier. Below is a comprehensive list of all the tools you may need, with optional tools listed. These all link to recommended tools on Amazon’s website. You can also view the full list on Amazon.com if you would like.

• Tape Measure – for measuring the phone and pipes to cut
• Pencil – for marking lines to cut
• Hand Saw or Oscillating Cutoff Saw – for cutting the pipe and the slot for the phone
• Cordless Drill and Drill Bits – for drilling the pilot holes for the phone slot
• File Set or Sandpaper – for smoothing the slot and any jagged edges of the pipe
• Clamp or Vice – for holding the pipe as you make this project

Material List

This phone amplifier project needs only a few materials to complete. While most can be sourced locally, the below list will also link to the materials on Amazon’s website. You can also view the full list on Amazon.com if you would like.

• 2″ PVC Pipe – about 12″ (depending on the width of your device)
• (2) 2″ PVC Elbow / 90-degree Fittings
• (2) 3″-to-2″ PVC Bushing Fittings
• PVC Glue – optional, but recommended

Cut List

The cut list for this project is very simple. You only need to cut three sections of the 2″ PVC pipe:

• 6.5″ length of 2″ PVC pipe – this size will vary depending on the width of your phone. Cut this pipe to 3″ longer than the width of your device.
• (2) 2″ length of 2″ PVC pipe – this will connect the elbows to the bushings

Assembly Steps

Cut the PVC pipe into the three lengths using a saw. For my phone (iPhone 8 Plus) my cut length was 6.5 inches. Your length may vary based upon the device you are using. Also cut two 2 inch long sections of pipe.

Using your tape measure and pencil, find the center point of the pipe. Using your device, mark the width and length of the cutout. You want as tight of a fit as possible while still leaving some wiggle room.

Using your drill and bits, drill small holes on the ends of the slot to cut out. TIP: It’s easier to start with a small bit and work you way up to the large bit rather than trying to drill the large hole at once. For my phone, I ended up drilling a 1/2 inch hole at each end of the slot.

With the holes drilled, the next step is to cut out the remaining waste portion of the pipe to finish the slot. You can cut this with a hand saw, or power saw — whatever you feel comfortable using! I used my Craftsman Oscillating Cutoff Tool and it made quick work of the job.

With the slot cut, you will now want to round over and smooth any rough edges or imperfections. You can use a file set, sandpaper, or even a pair of scissors to scrap the edges smooth. This is the benefit of working with PVC!

Assembly is a very easy process. Begin with your center pipe, and attach the two 90-degree elbow fittings to each end. Optional: use your PVC glue to affix the pieces permanently to the pipe.

The next step is to attach (or glue) the short 2 inch sections of pipe to the other ends of the 90 degree eblow fittings. Again, you can choose whether to glue them in place or use a friction fit.

Your final step is to put the bushing adapters/reducers onto the ends of the small 2″ pipes to join the bushings to the elbows. These larger bushings tilt the unit backwards slightly to help project the sound upward and into the room. They also give the acoustic amplifier a nice look!

Rock Out!

Now that your new PVC Acoustic Phone Amplifier is done you can queue up your favorite jams and rock out! Did you know? Amazon Prime includes access to thousands of songs and music for free with a prime membership. Get a FREE 30-day trial of Prime Here!

Disclaimer:  I am not a licensed professional electrician and this article has not been approved by any licensed professional. Do not attempt anything you are uncomfortable with and always seek professional advice and help when performing such tasks. Attempt this at your own risk and liability.

Tool List

• • • Electrical Tester

    • Pen / Pencil

    • Utility Knife

    • Plunge Cut Hand Saw

    • Wire Cutters / Strippers

    • Screwdriver

Material List

• • • Old Work Electrical Outlet Box

    • Electrical Outlet

    • Outlet Cover Plate

Safety First

Using your Electrical Tester, ensure power is disconnected to the circuit you will be tapping into. If you are unsure, just turn off your main breaker. It’s always better to be safe than sorry!

Mark and Cut

Mark out the location for your old work electrical box to be installed. I made a simple old work box template from cardboard since I do a lot of these installs. I would recommend spending the time and making one of your own if you are a DIYer, too.

With the lines marked, use your Plunge Cut Japanese Hand Saw to carefully cut the wall opening. Be very careful and mindful of where the wires are in the wall –Your saw will easily cut wires!

Install the Old Work Electrical Box

Now it’s time to put the old work electrical outlet box into the wall. Punch out one of the tabs in the back of the outlet box, then carefully pull the wires through the hole as you work the box into the wall.

Once the box is in the wall, use your screwdriver to tighten the screws on the box. Old work outlet boxes have tabs that twist up and clamp onto your wall to secure themselves. Be careful not to over tighten these clamps as they will strip out or break!

Prepare the Wires

With the outlet box in place, it’s time to strip off the protective sheathing of the wires and prepare them to be installed onto the outlet.

Using your wire strippers, carefully cut off the outermost wire sheathing to expose the wires. Then strip each individual wire sheathing off to expose about 1 inch of bare copper wire.

Connect the Wires

On outlets in the US you will find three different screw colors. The screw colors correspond to the three wires as follows.

Silver Screw = Neutral / White Wire
Gold Screw = Hot / Black Wire
Green Screw = Ground / Bare Copper Wire

Using your Wire Strippers, bend the ends of the wires to make small hooks. Attach the wires around the screws in a clockwise fashion. This is important so that as you tighten the screws they pull the wires tight and secure them better. Using your Screwdriver, tighten the screws down snugly, including any extra screws you may not use in the outlet.

Install the Outlet into the Box

With everything properly connected, secured, and double-checked that the wires are on the correct terminals, now is the time to work the outlet into the box. Be mindful of the wire locations and try to keep them from rubbing the outlet or terminals. You don’t want the wires shorting out in the box and causing an electrical fire!

When you get close to having the outlet in the box, you can use the screws on the outlet to pull it into the box the rest of the way. Alternate from top to bottom screws to “walk” the outlet into the box carefully. Also, be mindful of the vertical orientation (plumb) of the outlet as you tighten the screws. There are slots in the outlet to allow for compensation of crooked outlet boxes.

Attach the Outlet Cover

With the outlet in place, now is the time to put the cover on and hope and pray that it covers up any oopsies you had from cutting the hole in your wall.

Use your Screwdriver to install the screw, being careful not to over tighten it — it will crack the outlet cover if you are not careful! Unfortunately, I know this first hand.

Turn on the Power

With everything installed, turn the power back on, test the outlet with your Electrical Tester, and make sure everything works as expected. 

High Fives?

Did everything work as expected? Did you not die? Did your wall not explode into flames? Does it look like a professional install? Did you not loose any fingers or appendages? Great! Give yourself a high five!

https://youtu.be/tx2Jim1EYwM

The over all build for this project was relatively simple, and can be done with basic tools. I started with some rough hickory that was 1″ thick (also known as 5/4 or “5 quarter”) and cut the boards to rough length with my crosscut miter saw — two 15″ long board for the seat, and two 20″ long boards for the legs.

I then ran the board through my thickness planer to get them flat on two sides, and jointed one edge of the boards to square at 90 degrees to the face of the boards on my bench top joiner.

I glued the two 15″ boards together on the edge to give me a large flat square blank for the seat to be cut from, then glued the two 20″ boards together on top of each other to give me a thick slab to slice out the legs from.

After letting the glue set overnight, I began cutting the pieces to shape. I cut out the seat on my band saw and the legs on my table saw.

I planned to turn the legs on my wood lathe, but didn’t realize that they were too long for my lathe until the last second. This made me quickly change my design and go with squared legs.

I cut the ends of the legs at a 10 degree angle then attached them to the seat with 3/4″ oak dowels.

I trimmed the dowels, gave the stool a final sanding, then finished it with Teak Oil.

I started off by ripping the lumber to width. I am using two lumber thicknesses for this project. 1/2″ plywood for the outsides, and 1″ maple for the inside parts. I chose the 1/2″ plywood to keep the broom holder from being too thick.

Using a stop block clamped to my crosscut sled, I then cut the boards to width. A crosscut sled is an essential table saw jig both for safety and versatility and can be made very easily.

Using a stop block at the miter saw, I cut the maple piece to form a wedge. I’m also using a large file to hold the piece near the blade so I can keep my hands at a safe distance.

Using a mixture of regular wood glue and super glue I began assembling the holder. Using super glue lets me keep working on assembly without having to use fasteners or wait for the glue to set up.

Using the rest of the maple, I ripped a thin strip. Then glued it in place.

Taking a section of 1/2″ plywood, I cut the outer face of the broom holder, cleaned up the edges with sandpaper, then glued it in place.

Purchase Build Plans Here

I also made a limited production run of these Dutch Broom Holders and have them for sale on my website if you would like to buy one and support me at the same time, click here to go to my online store.

I carefully cut an oak dowel down to size, then wrapped electrical tape around it several times. The electrical tape helps the disc grip onto brooms and not slip.

To keep the disc from coming out the top when you remove the broom, I glued a small block of 1/2 plywood to the top.

Predrilling and countersinking holes was the last step before hanging this on the wall.

This broom holder was designed to hold a modern style broom about 1″ in diameter. This holder can also easily be stained or painted to suit your style or needs. I plan to sand mine down and give it a nice coat of spray lacquer to match my shop decor.

Thanks for joining, see you next time… in the workshop!